Well as you know life as a surfer is full of great times, people, and nature’s surprises, if you are a surfer you know this, if you are not I will fill you in a little.
So it all starts as the sun rises, and with the day now beginning thoughts of when the tide is high, low, and thoughts of the wind being on shore or off shore, start to fill our skulls up. We want to surf.
We think of where to meet up, where to surf and when to surf. Langosta at noon is the spot today. So we meet, take a scooter down to the Langosta and go to catch some waves. It looks crappy, the wind is on shore, and the waves turn to mush, and with the odd one that holds up, we go out just to catch them.
As time passed on, as I paddled and paddled around not catching much and getting smashed around a bit, I took a break, I went in sat on the beach and looked at the murky brown water move around, I had a strange feeling, rain was in the clouds ready to come down and I was ready to go in again. I paddled through the brown waves and got knocked around some more, the waves got mushier and the current got stronger, I crossed the river mouth and headed for the beach to call it a day. As I paddled closer to shore soon enough my friend and a fellow surfer was following behind me, I heard them yell at me and to my surprise they were paddling in already, knowing they are way hardcore about surfing then I am.
Once I concentrated on what my friend was saying, I heard there was a crocodile in the water, then I saw the surfer dude behind him who looked as white as a piece of paper or as white as a fresh Canadian tourist but he wasn’t white from that, he was white from fear! He was shaking his head no, while yelling “no shark!” My eyes widened and I was happy to be in knee-high deep water. We all walked out together onto the beach, informed the life guard at the Barcelo and talked about how large the fin was that he saw about 6-7 feet away from him, he claimed the shark was a 5-6 foot shark, but was hard to see through the murky water that day. And after talking about the sighting he slowly turned back into the tanned surfer he was.
Surfing is always a great experience, it makes us learn, about ourselves, others, and nature. If we embrace all we have even the scary things can be beautiful.
It is the pura vida. Live it, love it and respect it.